On a recent trip to Italy, we had a single shared goal: to sample as much Italian food as possible - paying special attention to the local specialities.
In the first of our A&F guides, we’re here to give you a list of our favourite food and drink spots in each destination we visited. We'll also tell you whereabouts each place is positioned in relation to the closest and most spectacular sights that you won't want to miss, starting in the capital city. When in Rome....
Virginiaie - a family-friendly traditional Roman restaurant in the historical centre, walking distance from several main sights
After a long day of travelling, we were keen to try some traditional Roman cuisine in a relaxed setting and our Airbnb host recommended Virginiaie, tucked down one of the pretty cobbled streets in the historical centre. We went for the amatriciana, made up of bucatini (like a larger, hollow spaghetti) with a sauce made from tomatoes, dried chillies, pecorino romano and fried Guanciale (cured pork jowl). It's simple enough to be really comforting, but still full of flavour. The pork was cooked just right - crispy and just a little bit chewy. We enjoyed our first evening in Rome in this comfortable and softly-lit dining room, and the attentive service and welcoming atmosphere was exactly what we'd hoped for.
Which sights is it closest to? 2 minutes walk from the famous Piazza Navona and less than 10 minutes from the Castel Sant'Angelo.
Address: Via di Parione, 41, 00186
Sant Eustachio Il Caffè - an elegant coffee bar and the oldest coffee roasters in Rome, positioned on a pretty street in the historical centre. The ideal pause point for an espresso and pastry before visiting the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain or Piazza Navona.
Do you sometimes imagine yourself in a stylish European city, looking mysterious and thoughtful while drinking a deliciously smooth coffee? We do, and this place makes the coffee, at least, a reality (looking mysterious and thoughtful is up to you.) We had breakfast here on the way to the Trevi Fountain, which is only a 10-minute walk away.
Which sights is it closest to? 2 minutes to Piazza Navona in one direction, or 2 minutes to the Pantheon in the other. Walk another 8 minutes and you'll reach the iconic Trevi fountain.
Address: Piazza di S. Eustachio, 82, 00186
Mercato Centrale - a modern food market within Termini station, brimming with all manner of the best food Rome has to offer. Come for breakfast, lunch and dinner!
City break idea: fly to Rome, get the train from the airport to Termini station and stay there for several hours, then go home the same evening. We particularly enjoyed the trappizino, which is a classic Roman snack like a folded pizza filled with deliciousness (we had local pork sausage flavoured with fresh herbs), but there is an absolute Aladdin's cave of stalls, stands, restaurants and bars serving authentic Roman fare, so you will be spoilt for choice at any time of the day.
Which sights is it closest to? Not only is Termini station the central transport hub for the subway and trains going all over Italy, but the National Museum of Rome is visible from the station, 5 minutes away on foot. From the station it's a half-hour walk to the Colloseum, and within walking distance are a number of other sights: Palazzo Massimo, Piazza delle Repubblica, Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica, Santa Maria della Vittoria, Rione Monti, and Via Veneto
Address: Via Giovanni Giolitti, 36, 00185
Enoteca Il Piccolo - unassuming wine bar boasting a fantastic array of Italian wines, especially local ones
This little wine bar in the historical centre is popular with the locals, probably due to its unpretentious decor and extensive offering of Italian wines (a handful of local ones by the glass) as well as snacks, cheeses and cured meats. If you fancy a full bottle or want to take one home, there are plenty more options lining the walls. We visited early evening for aperitivo and enjoyed some people-watching from one of the tables outside.
Which sights is it closest to? 10 minutes' walk from the Pantheon, 5 to Piazza Navona
Address: Via del Governo Vecchio, 74-75, 00186
Enoteca Casareale - a treasure trove of Italian wines guarded by a canine sommelier
This wine shop is owned by a distinguished-looking elderly man and his friendly dog. The owner simply asked us if we wanted white or red, and came back with a fantastic Tuscan 2017 vintage. Not to mention, at only 8 euros for two good-sized glasses, it was incredibly cheap compared to what we’re used to in London.
Which sights is it closest to? 10 minutes' walk from the Vatican City museum and 15 to Castel Sant'Angelo
Address: Via Caio Mario, 6, 00192
Dino & Tony's - a friendly fuss-free restaurant specialising in the three classic Roman pastas
There is no menu here. Be prepared for food to be brought to you! We were presented with the three classic Roman pastas - Amatriciana, Carbonara and Pasta all Gricia, followed by tiramisu and limoncello. Locals from all walks of life seem to frequent this restaurant, which was already filling up with families, teenagers, and businesspeople when we arrived early in the evening. All united by pasta. Regardless of the kind of day you've had, this is a great spot in which to wind down and soak up the Roman-ness.
Which sights is it closest to? Vatican City - the museum is 7 minutes away
Address: Via Leone IV 60, 00192
Enoteca Corsi - traditional trattoria for a delicious lunch in a relaxed setting
This restaurant and wine shop has a cheerful and relaxed atmosphere, and clearly no shortage of local patrons. We tried the carbonara, which they are deservedly famous for, and sampled two wines from their extensive list - a Barbera d'Asti and a crisp Vermentino. It's good value for money with friendly and attentive service, and makes for a fascinating slice of Roman dining culture.
Which sights is it closest to? The Pantheon and the Piazza del Campidoglio are 15 minutes' walk away
Address: Via del Gesù, 87/88, 00186
Cul de sac - wood-panelled wine bar with a delectable selection of aperitivo and local produce
One of our final stops in Rome that we’d love to return to is this cosy and welcoming wine bar. We suggest trying a crisp local Frascati and the local cheeses, particularly the Pecorino, of which there is an entire menu of variations to choose from! Our selection had a delightful tang of apple, which we gobbled up alongside local bread and cured meats. Don't be intimidated by the length of the wine list - the staff are happy to make recommendations. But honestly, you could pick anything from the menus at random and you wouldn't go far wrong.
Which sights is it closest to? 5 minutes from Campo de' Fiori, Pantheon and Piazza Navona
Address: Piazza di Pasquino, 73, Rome 00186
Stay salty af,
Anika & Fleurie
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