Before even finalising the dates for our trip to Norway, Anika optimistically put us on the waiting list for Maaemo, lauded as one of the best restaurants in the world. Oslo is already one of the most expensive cities in the world, and three Michelin Stars don’t come cheap at the best of times, so there was a slight hesitation when we actually got offered a table last minute for our final night in Oslo. We concluded that we couldn’t possibly say no to an opportunity like this, and gleefully accepted.
Thankfully accommodation in Oslo is far cheaper than the restaurants, so we’d booked ourselves into a stunning penthouse in the fashionable Barcode district. During our stay, we were aware that Maaemo was just across the road, but yet we’d never actually seen it – assuming we would figure it out by the time our restaurant reservation came around. On the night, we had a drink on our roof terrace and headed across the road… the restaurant was nowhere to be found. After several minutes wandering around tall, nameless blocks, we eventually saw a small door on the corner with a tiny sign. We were relieved to have a warm welcome, and to be told that our meal would start downstairs in the lounge.
We relaxed into comfortable armchairs, whilst being filled with small bites of huge flavour. Our 18 courses (with matching wines) began:
1. Rye crackers with mushroom yeast cream, which somehow tasted exactly like top quality foie gras despite being vegetarian. Someone please tell the French.
2. Next we had celeriac, Norwegian creme fraiche, picked dill and onion, fish roe.
3. We then had a soft cakey bun filled with warm duck liver and a honey glaze. It was so perfectly encased and an amazing texture.
4. A pretty little dish covered in flowers was next, a caramelised aged beef (beetroot for Anika, who doesn’t eat beef). It was lightly crunchy with a nice nuttiness coming through the rich flavour.
5. A potato cake with langoustine steamed with beer, thinly sliced courgette and an aquavit pickle.
We were then escorted upstairs to the main dining room, which was like entering a Norse saga. The high ceilings, immaculately placed warm lighting and soft, dark furnishings were minimal and incredibly stylish at the same time. An abstract artwork dominated one wall, while a soft woollen tapestry hung behind us, which Fleurie had to stop herself from snuggling into. In spite of the wood sparking and crackling in an enormous fireplace, it was as though the temperature of the room had been perfectly adjusted to body temperature to be as comfortable as possible. We were dining in the most sumptuous surroundings either of us had ever been in.
Before the first of our courses upstairs, we were served a Sesenta e Nove Albariño from Rias Baixas. It was lovely with our 6th course, a Norwegian oyster served with mussel sauce and dill oil. Creamy, delicate and one of our favourite dishes.
7. We continued with the Albarino for our next course, a small dish of summer peas with Danish caviar that had been aged for up to 10 months. There was also a richness from chicken cream, and butter flavoured from the chicken. Really delicious.
8. Next we moved onto a white Burgundy (2017 Saint-Aubin). This was paired with a steamed turbot with fermented white asparagus.
9. Afterwards, a German Riseling (2014, Dr Burklin-Wolf). This was served with a deeply rich king crab and reindeer broth. It had a smoky element, and we didn’t want the flavour to leave our mouths!
10. Next, 4Monos 2017 Spanish wine with Cariñena and Garnacha grapes was poured, which accompanied another favourite dish of ours: a beautiful langoustine grilled in honey, with an absolutely incredible sauce made with blackcurrant.
11. The same wine also went exceptionally well with our next course, a porridge of smoked reindeer heart and plum vinegar. It was smoky, fruity, sour.
12. Then we were served a Barbaresco (2015 Albesani) to go with our twelfth course of lamb (quail for Anika), served in sauces from their stock, celeriac, chive, horseradish. Perfectly executed but perhaps not as exciting as the rest – although choosing our weapon for the meal was a nice touch!
13. A simple-looking dish of potatoes next, which surprised us. There was concentrated potato, which made you realise just how flavoursome these little gems are, topped off with some birch leaf oil to complement it perfectly.
14. Then we had lamb heart and saddle, pickled gooseberries, tops of kale, wood sorrel, bread with lamb fat and brown butter. The bread alone was to die for. So good.
15. As we moved onto sweeter courses we were served a Gardens of Babylon wine. With just a touch of sweetness, it went wonderfully with a refreshing dish of Oxalis, juice of sour cherries and summer milk ice cream.
16. Next we had some last of the season strawberries and pansies, before being taken back downstairs to the lounge to finish our meal.
17. Back in the warm glow of the lounge, we were served unbelievably good brown butter ice cream, served with hazelnut, coffee molasses, and a moreish tuille cone. We could have easily eaten five of these.
18. Having been on a search for delicious cinnamon buns in Oslo, we were delighted to be presented with a plate filled with incredible cinnamon buns glazed in brown butter, canelli glazed in beef fat and brown butter, brown cheese fudge, and birch syrup fudge. Very Nordic.
Overall we had a very memorable time at Maaemo. The food was unique and incredibly tasty, the service was friendly and helpful, and the ambience was a real standout – you couldn’t not feel comfortable there.
The only slight let down for us was the wine pairing. Normally, we’d expect a new wine with every course, but here wines were often given to match a couple of courses. Often it would go extremely well with one course, and just quite well with the other – I feel like they are missing a trick here. That said, overall a great experience. It’s definitely pricey, and comparing it to even three Michelin stars around the world, it’s perhaps not good value for money – but if you want the Nordic three Michelin experience, this is the price to pay.
Stay salty af,
Anika & Fleurie
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